Such a nice evening today. We went for pizza with Hanna, Tim, Corina, Lukas and Luisa and Robert and Artti and of course Sara.
After dinner we went to the beach to enjoy sun and some wine and later volleyball. Legs were soft from the wine, but laugh was amazing. Beautiful night. So much fun. Summer in south of France.
You wake up at six o’clock in the morning to check 1.1 meter swell with 12 seconds. You wake up early enough to be in the water before others. To surf couple of waves by yourself before crowds come. You check because sometimes swell arrives much later than predicted. Hah.
Hmm, but it feels good to climb back into bed. Feels so good. But if you have to wake up couple of hours later again. Oh man, that is heavy. To bring yourself back up from a deep deep sweet sleep. But again great breakfast buffet, hot coffee and couple of rounds of good jokes with guests in the camp will bring you back to life.
Another amazing surfing day starts with practice of take-off on the board and understanding the surf forecast. We go individually through every person and then we have ask me anything surf related question round before we head to the beach covered with layers of sunscreen and bag full of water and food.
Walk to the beach is sunny. Lots of sun. By the time you are seeing the ocean all you can think of is to jump into water. To cool yourself down. Quick check about the waves and where to surf and some warm-up before getting into the water.
Hanna has brought GoPro camera with her and Corina has tools to fix it on the board. 6’8” surf-betty girls surf board is ready to take the camera. They fix the camera and off are they to the water. Couple of waves, switching the board so everyone can get a wave which is filmed by the camera. But there are also many beginners in the water and not many are watching where they are paddling. And so a crash of two boards happens and camera is kicked off from the board. Hanna has almost tears in her eyes and everybody is included in the search through the ocean to maybe find the camera. After half an hour of scanning and walking and swimming and searching we conclude that perhaps we have to admit that it is lost. Some keep searching.
Another 52 minutes and Tim is still searching camera that has been rolling further and further with the crashing waves and current in the ocean. 300 meters it has moved when Tim sees something black in the water. He picks it up with a smile, because camera is still recording. Hanna runs to hug him. Tim has earned one week free beer from Hanna and probably her children too.
What a day.
Later in the evening we still reflect back to the time on the beach and play some guitar and sing some Beatles and Oasis songs. 🙂
Those videos will make you want to learn to surf or if you already surf then probably they will make you want to grab a board and jump into water to catch couple of sweet waves.
Beautiful surfing at Byron Bay
Smooth surfing in Byron Bay, Australia. Surfer girl, Jorgelina Reyero from Argentina is capturing the beauty of empty surf. We love it!
Kelly Slater, Julian Wilson, Dane Reynolds and Jeremy Flores are filmed at 1000 frames per second with a revolutionary camera that had never been used to photograph or film the ocean surf.
Surf the Southern Coast of Portugal, the End of the Road
Two athletes represented in this video showcase very different ends of the surfing sphere, with the graceful longboard surfing skills of Andrea Molina Torn counterbalanced with the power-based short board approach of the hard-charging Eric Rebiere.
Surfing Tricks Compilation
Compilation video showcasing different surfing tricks, turns and maneuvers featuring the world’s best surfers. It will make you want to go back to the water and try something out.
Surfing from bird’s eye perspective
Amazing complilation to turn your surf mojo on.
It is just simple and beautiful to go to the beach in the evening. To drink a wine there, play some volleyball with the guests or beach soccer. Perhaps catch couple of waves or play guitar and sing along. Life feels so good when sun sets down and you wonder about your day. Life in Seignosse in south of France is sweet and full of sunshine. Just being in the water and surfing and catching waves gives you lot of energy. C’est la vie French would say.
Hah, we went out to Hossegor beach to see a concert of Tom Frager. 21.30 it should have started. So we sit in the bar and drink exciting Belgium beers. It is already 22.30 and then 23.00 and we wonder – is it French style to be late? We decide to ask barmen Fred if he knows more about it. “Yeah, it was yesterday,” he says. Darn it, but poster says Samedi in French. Saturday it is. Oh well, we keep trying different beers and then we head home. In the morning turns out, concert was happening on Saturday, but just inland Hossegor. Funny!
Winner of Best Short London Surf Film festival 2014, a story about drive, passion and ambition & what it means to put everything into something and gamble it all.
“It’s not how far you can see, but how far you can allow yourself to imagine, and automatically – find the boundaries”