Welcome to Morocco where sun is hot and waves every day, food is great and people friendly.
Getting colder in France. Though waves get bigger too and kids go to school and beaches get emptier and emptier. Last holiday people will disappear soon. Perhaps it is time to think about going somewhere warmer. Perhaps ever cheap Morocco. More sun and more waves.
Another amazing surfing day starts with practice of take-off on the board and understanding the surf forecast. We go individually through every person and then we have ask me anything surf related question round before we head to the beach covered with layers of sunscreen and bag full of water and food.
Walk to the beach is sunny. Lots of sun. By the time you are seeing the ocean all you can think of is to jump into water. To cool yourself down. Quick check about the waves and where to surf and some warm-up before getting into the water.
Hanna has brought GoPro camera with her and Corina has tools to fix it on the board. 6’8” surf-betty girls surf board is ready to take the camera. They fix the camera and off are they to the water. Couple of waves, switching the board so everyone can get a wave which is filmed by the camera. But there are also many beginners in the water and not many are watching where they are paddling. And so a crash of two boards happens and camera is kicked off from the board. Hanna has almost tears in her eyes and everybody is included in the search through the ocean to maybe find the camera. After half an hour of scanning and walking and swimming and searching we conclude that perhaps we have to admit that it is lost. Some keep searching.
Another 52 minutes and Tim is still searching camera that has been rolling further and further with the crashing waves and current in the ocean. 300 meters it has moved when Tim sees something black in the water. He picks it up with a smile, because camera is still recording. Hanna runs to hug him. Tim has earned one week free beer from Hanna and probably her children too.
What a day.
Later in the evening we still reflect back to the time on the beach and play some guitar and sing some Beatles and Oasis songs. 🙂
Every morning for three mornings in a row we have been waking up at 6.20 to get into car and look for some early morning surf. So we check Les Estagnots, we check Le Penon, we check La Graviere and Capbreton Sud and finally we end up at La Plage de Piste where we have been ending every day, twice a day, because it seems to be only spot working with heavy waves just like right now. First day was amazing and hard, second day we didn’t got even out to the line up, so we surfed side beach and third day we went, but not in. Surf wasn’t calling us. Many million people trying to catch waves and then crashing on top of each other. Didn’t seem fun. Many beginners and many rippers.